One of my favorite techniques is image transfer. Mostly I like to transfer images directly to fabric using various methods, however sometimes I also like to transfer images to “fabric paper”. “Fabric paper” can be made using many different methods, but it’s main features are that you can create unusual texture and of course, you can sew on it.

Making “fabric paper” using plain old tissue paper is one of my favorite types of “fabric paper”. I like the texture and the softness and it’s simple to do.

This video demonstrates a method of transferring an image to tissue paper and then turning it into “fabric paper” to make a focus design for an art quilt.

I love to get your questions, comments and feedback! Leave them in the comments section here: Printing on Tissue Paper

As I mentioned the other day I was on a mission to make a fabric flower which I wanted to use as an embellishment on one of my new handbag designs. And here it is …

And I had so much fun making the fabric flower embellishment …

that I made a video tutorial for you! Although I originally had in mind to make the fabric flower using the tutorial that I mentioned in my previous post, I ended up doing it quite differently, and instead incorporated a number of fun techniques including fabric painting, embellishing with my fringe foot, and for the final touch, a hot air treatment to curl the edges of the petals. So if you’re in the mood to make some fabric flowers – have fun and enjoy the video!

And don’t forget, if you love embellishing and making embellishments – and I know that you do – you’ll find tons of techniques on my Titivations DVD. You’ll find it in the store.

I love to get your questions, comments and feedback! Leave them in the comments section here: Tutorial: Fabric Flower Embellishment

Even though this product isn’t new, water soluble stabilizer is one of my very favorite products and I use it in various ways to create different types of thread and fiber effects.

Soft edges…

Lace windows …

Tassels …

This is one of those products that produce seemingly magical results with very little effort.

Water soluble stabilizer comes in two types – hot and cold but cold water soluble stabilizer is by far the easiest to work with and my personal favorite.

And cold water soluble stabilizer also comes in two types – clear or see-through (looks like a piece of plastic) such as Sulky Solvy, or fibrous (looks like a fabric mesh) such as Floriani Wet’n’Gone and Sulky Fabri-Solvy.

Generally with the thin type of clear water soluble stabilizer such as Standard Sulky Solvy, you would need to use an embroidery hoop to stop the stabilizer from distorting as you stitch. However with the fabric type as well as the very thick Sulky Super Solvy (clear type), you don’t need to use a hoop. The stabilizer is thick enough to support a heavy load of stitching.

My personal favorite water soluble stabilizer is Floriani Wet’n'Gone which is a fabric type. The fabric type stabilizers tend to be a little more supportive of a heavy stitch load and you generally need only one layer to work with. Plus I’ve found that this type also washes away more easily than the clear type.

This is an easy tutorial to get you started using water soluble stabilizer.

This is a simple technique for making pieces of fabric using thread and decorative yarn. These fabric pieces can then be used as background pieces on art quilts or other projects, or focus pieces on wearable art and clothing. Or you could extend the width and length and turn it into a scarf!

Set up your machine for standard sewing with decorative thread in the top and the same thread in the bobbin, and use a zigzag stitch.

Tip: You could also use monofilament thread for effects where you don’t want the sewing thread to be visible and the yarn looks like it’s just floating in place. Very magical!

To begin, cut a piece of thick water soluble stabilizer approx 8” x 8”, or cut enough layers so that the stitching doesn’t distort things while you sew. You might have to do a test first to see how it holds up.

Using a marking pen, draw a 1” grid to be used as sewing guidelines. For this tutorial I’m using one layer of Sulky Super Solvy.

Cut some lengths of decorative fiber or yarn 12” long.

Starting from the center and working your way out towards the edges of the stabilizer, position the lengths of yarn along the marked lines and allow the ends of the yarn to overhang by 2” at each end. This will turn into a fringe. Sew the yarn to the stabilizer using a zig-zag stitch.

Continue working from the center out, adding strands of fiber until all the rows are sewn over. Take your time and enjoy the process.

Now sew rows of straight stitch in between the rows of fiber to hold everything in place. This will also help to keep the shape.

The final step is to wash away the stabilizer and watch the magic happen.

It’s always best to follow the manufacturer’s directions, but generally you only need hold it under some running water until the stabilizer washes away. This can take a little while when using this thick Solvy, so I generally run most of it away under a running tap, and then let it soak in a bowl of water for ten minutes or so and then rinse again. You may need to do this two or three times to totally remove the residue.

What you have left is a soft, lacy piece of cloth.

Once you’ve got the basics mastered, you can experiment a little. Try adding other elements such as sheer fabrics, or angelina fiber, or even some free motion stitching using metallic threads.

You could also go crazy and instead of a structured grid, just do the whole thing freehand. This is one of my favorite methods because you know how much I love to work intuitively.

Isn’t that magical? I *love* working with this stuff.

In the meantime if you haven’t explored the amazing world of water soluble stabilizer, you’ll find some resources to get you started.

I love to get your questions, comments and feedback! Leave them in the comments section here: Tutorial: Making Fabric Using Water Soluble Stabilizer

One day recently while I was browsing the web I found the answer! And of course I can’t link to the tutorial because I don’t know where I found it, but this is how it’s done and it’s SO easy.

This is one of the images that I’m using on the front cover of the book.

You can see close up that the background is well, rather dreadful.

So here’s how to remove it. Note, I’m using Photoshop Elements 6 for this tutorial, however they should be similar in other versions.

Select your favorite “selection” tool, either the magnetic lasso or the quick selection tool.

Zoom in real close to the image so you can see what you’re doing and select the outline of the image. You want to get the selection as good as possible. I’m using the quick selection tool for this. In the photo you can just make out the little marching ants around the outline.

Once you’ve selected the outline, go to the file menu and choose Select, Modify, then either Expand or Contract depending on which is the best way for you to cut out the image. For this outline I’m using Contract because I want to remove some of that fuzzy outline and cut in closer to the image.

Choose the number of pixels you want to contract by; you usually don’t need too much. I’ve chosen 2.

Next go to Select, Feather …

… and select the amount of feather to smooth out the edges. I’ve chosen 3.

Then go to Edit, Copy. Then Edit, Paste. Or Ctrl C then Ctrl V on your keyboard.

This now puts a copy of your cutout image in a new layer on top of your original.

If you hide the original image, you can easily see that the edges have been feathered and softened.

And when you place this on a new background – it looks FABULOUS!

I love learning new things, especially when they work out so well! And of course that’s a nice segue leading to my new book Machine Wrapped Cording, the first in the Creative Textile Arts Weekend Workshop series. Because with this book I’ve rewritten and updated all the information and lessons and I guarantee you’ll learn some fabulous new tricks and technique for using machine wrapped cording. See here for more details.

I love to get your questions, comments and feedback! Leave them in the comments section here: Photoshop Elements: Removing backgrounds the easy way

Then look no further.

I don’t make many quilts any more, but I still do a lot of free motion – mostly free motion embroidery like this.

But I’ve been doing free motion for as long as I can remember (that’s a long time) and I know some of you struggle with it, so here are my Top Ten favorite tips for free motion ..

#1: the quilt sandwich

Before you begin machine quilting, you should ensure that your quilt is properly sandwiched and basted. Time taken for preparation beforehand will prevent problems occurring during the machine quilting process.

• The backing and the batting should be at least 2" larger than the quilt top on all sides.
• Press the top and the backing
• Lay out the backing, wrong side up
• Smooth out all the wrinkles
• Lay out the batting on top of the backing and smooth out all the wrinkles
• Center the quilt top, right side up, on top of the batting and smooth out all the wrinkles
• Baste in place

Basting can be done using any of the following methods

basting spray
There are a variety of basting sprays available. For best results, follow the instructions on the can, and always ensure you’re in a well-ventilated area when using basting sprays.

safety pins
Quilter’s safety pins are slightly bent so that they are easy to remove as you’re sewing. Start pinning at one end of the quilt and work your way across and up, folding the quilt if necessary and ensuring that the quilt lays flat and wrinkle-free before you pin. Space the safety pins up to 6" apart.

hand stitching
Use a long darning needle to hand stitch and the process will go much quicker.

• Baste close to the outer edge of the quilt first and then work across from one side to the other
• If you’re right-handed, work right to left; if you’re left-handed, work left to right
• Backstitch at the end of each row
• Basting lines should be approx 6" apart
• When you’re done basting across the quilt, rotate the quilt 45 deg and baste across the quilt in that direction also

#2: a good sewing or quilting machine

A good sewing or quilting machine will improve the quality of your machine quilting greatly. A good machine doesn’t have to cost a lot of money, but it should provide at the very least, good quality stitch and tension features.

If you’re are in the market for a new machine, download my free eBook “Quilting Machine Buyers Guide” (right click and save to your desktop) which will help you prepare for machine shopping.

Make sure you’re familiar with the features of your sewing or quilting machine (that’s right – read the manual), and that you’re comfortable using your machine.

#3: machine feet

Specialty machine feet are designed to assist the machine user in getting the very best quality stitch possible, and using these feet can reduce a lot of problems associated with machine quilting.

walking foot or even feed foot
A walking foot or even feed foot, is helpful when doing straight stitching on bulky fabrics and quilts. This type of foot will provide a straight stitching line with uniform stitch length. Using a quilting bar with the walking foot will assist in stitching evenly spaced rows.

The walking foot, working in unison with the feed dogs, provides a smooth and even feed of the fabric, and assists in preventing the layers of the quilt from shifting.

Some models of quilting and sewing machines come equipped with an in-built even feed, or walking foot. This usually provides easier and better quality stitching than when using a standard walking foot attachment.

free motion foot
A free motion foot should be used when doing free motion quilting. Free motion quilting is normally done with the feed dogs down, however some quilters like to work with the feed dogs up. This is a personal preference and you should take the time to test both methods to determine which one you’re most comfortable with.

The free motion quilting technique can be challenging to master and if you have never done free motion quilting, it’s a good idea to take some classes to learn the technique or at least invest in a book that explains the technique.

#4: needles

It’s important to make sure you’re working with the correct needle for the type of thread that you’re using.

Always make sure your needle is sharp in order to provide the best possible stitch quality. A dull needle will break the fibers of your fabric rather than pierce them, and as a result you can sometimes end up with unsightly broken fibers pushed through to the back of your project.

There is a reason why there are so many different types of needles available; they each serve a different purpose. You can visit the Schmetz Needle website and download a pdf version of their needle chart for descriptions on the different types of needles available.

#5: thread

There are many different types of thread on the market these days, which is such a great thing for quilters – we have a huge selection of types, weights and colors to choose from.

Thread quality is an important issue and you should always use a good quality thread in your sewing machine. It will give you less aggravation when sewing, and provide you with a beautiful finish on your project.

Using old thread is a common problem that usually ends in frustration. As thread gets old, it becomes brittle and prone to shredding and no matter what type of needle you use, it’s challenging to find one that will work with this type of thread.

Don’t throw out old thread though, use it in your bobbin where it will work much better for you.

A great resource for information about threads can be found at Superior Threads. They not only make a great product, but they also provide valuable information.

#6: tension

Setting the correct tension is very important when machine quilting. As quilters, we sometimes use different weight threads in the top and bobbin, and it then becomes absolutely necessary to adjust your tension in order to achieve a good looking stitch quality.

If you find that adjusting the top tension does not provide a good stitch quality, you will need to adjust the bobbin tension also. If you’re not comfortable adjusting the bobbin tension, purchase a separate bobbin case and use it exclusively for when you need to make adjustments, then you can be sure that you will always have a bobbin case set to factory tension.

#7: tools

There are a number of quilting tools on the market that can be helpful when doing machine quilting.

sewing machine extension table
Sufficient clear table space around your machine is important when working with large quilts as it helps the quilt to move freely. If you do not have a drop in sewing table, then an extension table for your machine is the next best thing. You will be amazed at the difference it makes having extra space, at machine level height, to support your quilt.

quilting gloves
When doing free motion quilting, quilting gloves can greatly improve the manageability of your quilt, whether large or small. Moving your quilt with ease is an important factor in free motion quilting. It helps to provide a consistency in stitch length and stitch line.

free motion slider
The free motion slider is a tool that provides a slippery surface to your machine bed and assists in the movement of your quilt when doing free motion quilting.

The slider is a teflon sheet, size 8 1/2″ x 11″, that you tape to the top of your machine bed, just under the machine needle. It has a small hole in it to allow movement of the machine needle.

This is a great alternative to using quilting gloves.

#8: transferring designs

There are a number of ways to transfer designs to your quilt.

You can free-hand draw your designs using fabric marking pens which are available in a variety of styles and color, removable by heat, water or air. You can also use marking pens with stencils.

Chalk is a simple marking tool as it brushes away easily and does not leave residue, and pouncing chalk works particularly well with stencils.

You can purchase precut stencils, or make your own:
Print out a design onto copy paper using your printer, remove the upper thread from your sewing machine and stitch around the outline, punching holes into the design outline. Use pouncing chalk to transfer the design to your project.

If the smell of pouncing chalk irritates you or causes problems with your breathing, substitute the chalk by using talcum powder for dark colored fabric or cinnamon for light colored fabric. They smell much nicer and brush away just as easily.

#9: posture

Neck, shoulder and wrist tension are problems that most machine quilters will face at some time or another. Sitting at a sewing machine for long periods of time can produce a significant amount of stress, particularly on these areas of your body.

Having your machine set at the appropriate height is one way to reduce shoulder and neck strain. Sewing machine cabinets that allow your machine to drop in and sit flush with the table top are a great way to reduce shoulder strain. Along with a comfortable chair set at the appropriate height.

Free motion quilting seems to produce a lot of strain on these areas, particularly as most of us are so intent on keeping our stitching even and consistent that we tend to ignore the tension building.

Get up and move around often: stretch out your arms and your back, and make sure your body is relaxed before sitting down to sew again.

The more relaxed and comfortable you’re, the better sewing results you will achieve.

#10: practice makes perfect

I’m sure you’ve heard this said over and over again, but it really is the only way you will ever get good at machine quilting – practice, practice, practice.

Whether it’s using your walking foot or attempting free motion quilting, practicing often will help you to feel comfortable with both the process and your machine.

Free motion quilting, particularly, requires lots of practice to ensure that the stitching line runs smoothly and the stitch length is somewhat consistent. Some machines even offer a stitch regulator to help with this process.

Are you ready to make your free motion quilting look fabulous>

Then check out my dvd …

An exploration of techniques and applications for making your free motion quilting “FABULOUS!”

Does your free motion quilting suffer from lack?

lack of originality? – Is your quilting ordinary when you want it to stand out from the crowd?
lack of emphasis? – Is your quilting bland when you want it to be bold and outrageous?
lack of technique? – Does your quilting stitch looking a little less than perfect?

The DVD includes

• 154 page pdf workbook with step-by-step instructions for a variety of embellishing techniques, applications and projects
• approximately 45 minutes of supporting video demonstrations
• over 120 full-size photos of step-by-step instructions and samples

I love to get your questions, comments and feedback! Leave them in the comments section here: My top Ten Tips for Free Motion Machine Quilting