Printing on Tissue Paper

I’m taking a break during December, but please enjoy some of my previously published articles and tutorials.

Image Transfer

One of my favorite techniques is image transfer. Mostly I like to transfer images directly to fabric using various methods, however sometimes I also like to transfer images to “fabric paper”. “Fabric paper” can be made using many different methods, but it’s main features are that you can create unusual texture and of course, you can sew on it.

Making “fabric paper” using plain old tissue paper is one of my favorite types of “fabric paper”. I like the texture and the softness and it’s simple to do.

This video demonstrates a method of transferring an image to tissue paper and then … Continue reading

Tutorial: Fabric Flower Embellishment

I’m taking a break during December, but please enjoy some of my previously published articles and tutorials.

As I mentioned the other day I was on a mission to make a fabric flower which I wanted to use as an embellishment on one of my new handbag designs. And here it is …

Fabric Flower Pin

And I had so much fun making the fabric flower embellishment …

Fabric Flower Pin

that I made a video tutorial for you! Although I originally had in mind to make the fabric flower using the tutorial that I mentioned in my previous post, I ended up doing it quite differently, and instead incorporated a number of fun techniques including fabric painting, embellishing with my fringe foot, and for the final touch, a hot air treatment to curl the edges of the petals. So if you’re in the mood to make some fabric flowers – have fun and enjoy the video!

And don’t forget, if you love embellishing and making embellishments – and I know that you do – you’ll find tons of techniques on my Titivations DVD. You’ll find it in the store.

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Tutorial: Making Fabric Using Water Soluble Stabilizer

Don’t you just love getting creative with new and fun products and techniques?

Even though this product isn’t new, water soluble stabilizer is one of my very favorite products and I use it in various ways to create different types of thread and fiber effects.

Soft edges…

Water Soluble Stabilizer Tutorial

Lace windows …

Water Soluble Stabilizer Tutorial

Tassels …

Water Soluble Stabilizer Tutorial

This is one of those products that produce seemingly magical results with very little effort.

Water soluble stabilizer comes in two types – hot and cold but cold water soluble stabilizer is by far the easiest to work with and my personal favorite.

And cold water soluble stabilizer also comes in two types – clear or see-through (looks like a piece of plastic) such as Sulky Solvy, or fibrous (looks like a fabric mesh) such as Floriani Wet’n’Gone and Sulky Fabri-Solvy.

Generally with the thin type of clear water soluble stabilizer such as Standard Sulky Solvy, you would need to use an embroidery hoop to stop the stabilizer from distorting as you stitch. However with the fabric type as well as the very thick Sulky Super Solvy (clear type), you don’t need to use a hoop. The stabilizer is thick enough to support a heavy load of stitching.

My personal favorite water soluble stabilizer is Floriani Wet’n'Gone which is a fabric type. The fabric type stabilizers tend to be a little more supportive of a heavy stitch load and you generally need only one layer to work with. Plus I’ve found that this type also washes away more easily than the clear type.

This is an easy tutorial to get you started using water soluble stabilizer.

This is a simple technique for making pieces of fabric using thread and decorative yarn. These fabric pieces can then be used as background pieces on art quilts or other projects, or focus pieces on wearable art and clothing. Or you could extend the width and length and turn it into a scarf!

Set up your machine for standard sewing with decorative thread in the top and the same thread in the bobbin, and use a zigzag stitch.

Tip: You could also use monofilament thread for effects where you don’t want the sewing thread to be visible and the yarn looks like it’s just floating in place. Very magical!

To begin, cut a piece of thick water soluble stabilizer approx 8” x 8”, or cut enough layers so that the stitching doesn’t distort things while you sew. You might have to do a test first to see how it holds up.

Using a marking pen, draw a 1” grid to be used as sewing guidelines. For this tutorial I’m using one layer of Sulky Super Solvy.

Water Soluble Stabilizer Tutorial

Cut some lengths of decorative fiber or yarn 12” long.

Starting from the center and working your way out towards the edges of the stabilizer, position the lengths of yarn along the marked lines and allow the ends of the yarn to overhang by 2” at each end. This will turn into a fringe. Sew the yarn to the stabilizer using a zig-zag stitch.

Water Soluble Stabilizer Tutorial

Continue working from the center out, adding strands of fiber until all the rows are sewn over. Take your time and enjoy the process.

Water Soluble Stabilizer Tutorial

Now sew rows of straight stitch in between the rows of fiber to hold everything in place. This will also help to keep the shape.

Water Soluble Stabilizer Tutorial

The final step is to wash away the stabilizer and watch the magic happen.

It’s always best to follow the manufacturer’s directions, but generally you only need hold it under some running water until the stabilizer washes away. This can take a little while when using this thick Solvy, so I generally run most of it away under a running tap, and then let it soak in a bowl of water for ten minutes or so and then rinse again. You may need to do this two or three times to totally remove the residue.

What you have left is a soft, lacy piece of cloth.

Water Soluble Stabilizer Tutorial

Water Soluble Stabilizer Tutorial

Once you’ve got the basics mastered, you can experiment a little. Try adding other elements such as sheer fabrics, or angelina fiber, or even some free motion stitching using metallic threads.

Making Fabric Using Water Soluble Stabilizer

You could also go crazy and instead of a structured grid, just do the whole thing freehand. This is one of my favorite methods because you know how much I love to work intuitively.

Water Soluble Stabilizer Tutorial

Water Soluble Stabilizer Tutorial

Isn’t that magical? I *love* working with this stuff.

In the meantime if you haven’t explored the amazing world of water soluble stabilizer, you’ll find some resources to get you started.
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Photoshop Elements: Removing backgrounds the easy way

Although I’m getting much better using Photoshop Elements, I still don’t quite know everything there is to know, and one of the challenges I’ve always experienced was when removing backgrounds from an image so that it didn’t look like the dog had chewed around the edges of it. This is often particularly difficult when trying to remove the background from a photo of a fabric project because of all the threads and embellishments.

One day recently while I was browsing the web I found the answer! And of course I can’t link to the tutorial because I don’t know where I found it, but this is how it’s done and it’s SO easy.

This is one of the images that I’m using on the front cover of the book.

Machine Wrapped Cording

You can see close up that the background is well, rather dreadful.

Machine Wrapped Cording

So here’s how to remove it. Note, I’m using Photoshop Elements 6 for this tutorial, however they should be similar in other versions.

Select your favorite “selection” tool, either the magnetic lasso or the quick selection tool.

Machine Wrapped Cording

Zoom in real close to the image so you can see what you’re doing and select the outline of the image. You want to get the selection as good as possible. I’m using the quick selection tool for this. In the photo you can just make out the little marching ants around the outline.

Machine Wrapped Cording

Once you’ve selected the outline, go to the file menu and choose Select, Modify, then either Expand or Contract depending on which is the best way for you to cut out the image. For this outline I’m using Contract because I want to remove some of that fuzzy outline and cut in closer to the image.

Machine Wrapped Cording

Choose the number of pixels you want to contract by; you usually don’t need too much. I’ve chosen 2.

Machine Wrapped Cording

Next go to Select, Feather

Machine Wrapped Cording

… and select the amount of feather to smooth out the edges. I’ve chosen 3.

Machine Wrapped Cording

Then go to Edit, Copy. Then Edit, Paste. Or Ctrl C then Ctrl V on your keyboard.

Machine Wrapped Cording

This now puts a copy of your cutout image in a new layer on top of your original.

Machine Wrapped Cording

If you hide the original image, you can easily see that the edges have been feathered and softened.

Machine Wrapped Cording

And when you place this on a new background – it looks FABULOUS!

Machine Wrapped Cording

I love learning new things, especially when they work out so well! And of course that’s a nice segue leading to my new book Machine Wrapped Cording, the first in the Creative Textile Arts Weekend Workshop series. Because with this book I’ve rewritten and updated all the information and lessons and I guarantee you’ll learn some fabulous new tricks and technique for using machine wrapped cording. See here for more details.

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My top Ten Tips for Free Motion Machine Quilting

Looking for some “fabulous” free motion quilting tips?

Then look no further.

I don’t make many quilts any more, but I still do a lot of free motion – mostly free motion embroidery like this.

Free Motion Quilting

But I’ve been doing free motion for as long as I can remember (that’s a long time) and I know some of you struggle with it, so here are my Top Ten favorite tips for free motion ..

#1: the quilt sandwich

Before you begin machine quilting, you should ensure that your quilt is properly sandwiched and basted. Time taken for preparation beforehand will prevent problems occurring during the machine quilting process.

  • The backing and the batting should be at least 2" larger than the quilt top on all sides.
  • Press the top and the backing
  • Lay out the backing, wrong side up
  • Smooth out all the wrinkles
  • Lay out the batting on top of the backing and smooth out all the wrinkles
  • Center the quilt top, right side up, on top of the batting and smooth out all the wrinkles
  • Baste in place

Basting can be done using any of the following methods

basting spray
There are a variety of basting sprays available. For best results, follow the instructions on the can, and always ensure you’re in a well-ventilated area when using basting sprays.

safety pins
Quilter’s safety pins are slightly bent so that they are easy to remove as you’re sewing. Start pinning at one end of the quilt and work your way across and up, folding the quilt if necessary and ensuring that the quilt lays flat and wrinkle-free before you pin. Space the safety pins up to 6" apart.

hand stitching
Use a long darning needle to hand stitch and the process will go much quicker.

  • Baste close to the outer edge of the quilt first and then work across from one side to the other
  • If you’re right-handed, work right to left; if you’re left-handed, work left to right
  • Backstitch at the end of each row
  • Basting lines should be approx 6" apart
  • When you’re done basting across the quilt, rotate the quilt 45 deg and baste across the quilt in that direction also

Free Motion Quilting

#2: a good sewing or quilting machine

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